Tuesday, June 27, 2017

8.15am conditions still pristine in lahaina, and when the big set comes it's actually shoulder to head high.

5.45am west side is flat to knee high, with clean conditions everywhere. Lahaina town has some waist high sets. Didn't look at hookipa, but my guess is at least shoulder high (and poor shape).

Tuesday 6 27 17 morning call

After two longboard sessions (second one was a 9, knee to waist high with some absolutely perfect sections at one of my favorite break with only another guy out) and a total of 5 hours surfing, yesterday I thought I was completely done when I called my friend Jeff Henderson on the way back from the west side.
"Hi Jeff, are you at the shop? I have a couple of foiling questions for you"
"I will be later, but you should go sailing instead. There's waves on the north in June!"
"Oh, I guess you're right..."

So I did and I added one hour of wave sailing at Hookipa. Not my favorite conditions, but heaps of fun with solid head high waves and the occasional logo high bomb. My shoulders are slightly sore this morning, but I'm up early no matter what and gonna do it all over again. Got to make hey while the sun shines, but with a car loaded of all kind of different toys like this, the sun shines everyday in my sky. Inside: a 9.4 single fin nose rider, a 8.0 longboard, 2 shortboards, 2 sails, boom, mast and a foil. On top: 2 SUP boards and the windfoiling board. Very symbolically, no room for humans other than the driver in this configuration. No need either, I'd add.

One of the exams I studied at the university was called "Ricerca operativa". It dealt with optimizing things. All kind of things. Here's one example: You have a backpack of a certain size and volume and a number of objects of certain shape and you have to pick any number of them to maximize the occupation of the space inside the backpack. I grasped the concepts so naturally that I got the best possible score. I'm good at packing...

Enough auto-celebration, here's one for the ladies. With a body like that, you look cool even when you fall.

Here's one for the guys too.

Still way too windy for quality surfing at sunset, couldn't find a decent shot other than this wipeout in the lip.

3am significant buoy readings
South shore

2.3ft @ 11s from 106° (ESE)
2ft @ 15s from 127° (ESE)

2.1ft @ 12s from 105° (ESE)

2.5ft @ 17s from 118° (ESE)

Outer buoys still showing some energy from the south with a mix of different periods. We'll take them. After a week of big waves, this week is going to be knee to waist high in average, but far from flat. And I'll keep driving to Lahaina in search of clean waves. Easy task, as most mornings over there usually offer them. Check the webcams and my beach report for size and conditions.

North shore
4.6ft @ 11s from 56° (ENE)

4ft @ 6s from 64° (ENE)
3ft @ 11s from 54° (ENE)
2.5ft @ 9s from 48° (NE)
More energy from the NE today, possibly on a slight decrease. The wind at Hookipa is blowing 9(4-14)mph at 4.30am and I'll leave that behind in the dark.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific shows pretty much only the windswell fetch.

South Pacific shows a SSE fetch with a tiny section of 30 knots. Enough to keep the flatness away (in a week).

Morning sky looks good as usual and another stunning day is on its way. The weather has been unreal in June. Even in the middle of the day, it's 86F (30C) and it still doesn't feel hot thanks to the trades. I can't even remember when was the last time I used the AC in my car.

Just watched this video by my favorite human on Earth Dr. Greger. Everytime I wait in line to pay for my groceries, I observe what the other people are buying and what Dr. Greger is saying appears absolutely evident. The public must not know how bad is the stuff they buy and eat, otherwise they wouldn't do that. Or, would they?

Monday, June 26, 2017

6.30am hookipa was shoulder high and poor shape. West side is waist high and clean everywhere, lahaina town has occasionally bigger sets.

Monday 6 26 17 morning call

Yesterday morning the conditions in Lahaina were pristine again and I saw (and rode) a few more 9's. I got a shoulder high and clean report from Hookipa too. This instead is Maui's Coconut Willie in Tahiti in a picture featured by the Surfers magazine website. How's that lip?

After work I tried a formula board with the foil. Once again, with the box all the way at the back (where the windsurfing fin normally is), the feeling was of a slalom setup and I didn't particularly like it. With the box further forward, the foil starts foiling much earlier and it's much more maneuverable. More like a wave board, really. I'm still looking for a board to dedicate to windfoiling and I'm starting to realize that whatever I find, I will have to add a box in front of the regular fin one. That's a lovely $250 extra.

3am significant buoy readings
South shore

2.2ft @ 15s from 129° (ESE)
2.1ft @ 12s from 140° (SE)

2.4ft @ 15s from 186° (S)
The southerly energy at the outer buoys is finally declining this morning after 9-10 days of pumping waves. There will still be waves on the south shore, but smaller than yesterday. A new small long period pulse is predicted to slowly pick up later in the day, but it's more of a tomorrow's deal, if it materializes. Check the webcams for today's size.

North shore
3.4ft @ 13s from 54° (ENE)

Solid reading at Pauwela, if the wind won't be too strong, Hookipa and all the easterly exposures could be fun at sunrise. In the meantime, the sensor is reading 5(3-7)mph at 4am and below is the wind map at 6am.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific shows a very weak and not well oriented NW fetch (won't do anything for us) plus a NE fetch.

South Pacific shows a very weak Tasman Sea fetch (won't do anything for us either) and a quite wide SSE to SE one.

Classic trades morning sky again. Even if those clouds to our east move over us, I'm still calling it another stunning day.

Sunday, June 25, 2017

5.30am west side has waist to chest high waves. Lahaina has still occasional head high sets. Wind is calm everywhere.

Sunday 6 25 17 morning call

Another fantastic day of surfing on the south shore yesterday. The conditions in Lahaina were pristine in the morning. I didn't see any 10's, but I saw a couple of 9's. These are some photos I took at Olowalu.

This little kid was catching the white water on the inside all by himself and deserves a photo.

The waves weren't the only beautiful thing out there.

More beauty.

And more beauty.

Meanwhile, in Kanaha the second race of the Maui race series was being held. Photo by Harrry Wievel

I'm selling this 7.7 single fin egg. This is the craigslist page with the ad. I priced it $250, but only for the blog readers and only today from 9 to 2, I'll sell it for $200. Come grab it at Hi-Tech if you want it. Epoxy and extremely light with a matching color fin. The bag is extra and optional.

3am significant buoy readings
South shore

2.5ft @ 13s from 136° (SE)
2.5ft @ 11s from 140° (SE)

2.9ft @ 13s from 133° (SE)                      
2.1ft @ 10s from 110° (ESE)
3.6ft @ 13s from 152° (SSE)                      
1.9ft @ 10s from 138° (SE)
Still energy from the south (the amount of east is impossible to quantify due to the influence of the windswell, but we know there's some if you remember the fetches). There will still be waves. Check the webcam and my early morning beach report for size and conditions update.

North shore
3.2ft @ 8s from 42° (NE)

Because of the high tide, Hookipa looked very small at sunset again, but this morning there should be some waves. The wind is calm at 4.30am and in the silence I heard a set breaking.

My friend who runs the Meteogram website couldn't stand the mega zoom of the map I posted yesterday (can't blame him, the thing was horrible) and offered his much better graphic version and the result is great. This is noon today and the only problem is that the prediction is 34 hours old. It's not automatically updated yet, but he's working on that. We'll see, in the meantime, it's sure a lot easier to read and it looks very promising.

North Pacific shows a couple of fetches, the most relevant of which is the NE one.

South Pacific shows some fetches too, the most relevant of which is the SSE one, with patches of 33 knots.

Classic trades sky again and another stunning day is on its way.

Saturday, June 24, 2017

5.30am lahaina has chest to head high waves and clean. Too dark along the road for a report, but the wind looked calm.

Saturday 6 24 17 morning call

Yesterday was another day of waves on the south shore. Conditions weren't as pristine as the day before, but I managed to pull off two sessions before an afternoon work shift. No time in between to take photos from land, I couldn't stand the thought of another day without shot of the day, so I pulled the gopro out and put it on my only board with a mount on the nose. I like that angle much better than what you get with the mouth mount. I'd like it even better if I was a better surfer... I thought this turn was totally radical when I did it! Btw, thanks to that surfing hat (available for sale at Hi-Tech), I've been on a zero sunscreen program for more than a month and didn't get burned once.

3am significant buoy readings
South shore

3.5ft @ 15s from 145° (SE)

3.4ft @ 14s from 140° (SE)

4.2ft @ 14s from 149° (SE)

Numbers at the outer buoys still up, but on a slow decline. This is day 8 of a great weak of southerly swells and I'll do the drive in the dark again. Got to make hey while the sun shines, since next week is not going to be as good as this one, even though there's small but long period episodes in the forecast, the first one of which should happen Tuesday. I'll post the usual beach reports from the road, but you guys also check the webcam please. Sometimes while dedicating 3 minutes of my time at doing that I wonder:"why am I doing this when they can just watch the webcam?". Anyway, 3 minutes is no big deal, I'll keep doing them in the hope that someone appreciates them.

Watch out the negative tide that in Lahaina today will be at 9.11am as shown below. That's another good reason to hit it early before it happens.

North shore
4ft @ 8s from 55° (ENE)

That is not too bad of a reading at Pauwela. Despite that, Hookipa looked kinda flat at sunset, but the high tide didn't help. Should be something in the morning, maybe up to even head high at Pavils, but overall nothing to be too excited about.

Yellow is 15-20 knots and orange is 20-25, so this model shows plenty wind at noon, specially down the coast of the north shore.

Instead, even the notoriously generous NAM3 model at the bottom of the windguru page only shows 13-18 mph. The difference is significant and I'll keep an eye on the wind to see which one is right.

North Pacific shows small, weak fetches.

Better fetches from the south, but with a longer travel distance. 35 knots in the lower part of one of them, but in a very small section.

Classic trade sky again and another stunning day is on its way.

Friday, June 23, 2017

5.30am lahaina has head high waves. Couldn't see much along the road, but the wind was calm everywhere.