Saturday, March 17, 2018

Saturday 3 17 18 morning call

Double longboard session for me yesterday. No photos of the day, here's an Tahititan image from Ben Thouard.

6am significant buoy readings
South shore
1.8ft @ 12s from 169° (SSE)

1.8ft @ 13s from 183° (S)

Southerly energy going down in period at the buoys but there's still knee to waist high waves on the Lahaina side.

North shore
4.9ft @ 13s from 335° (NNW)

4.1ft @ 13s from 319° (NW)

2.8ft @ 8s from 66° (ENE)
1.8ft @ 7s from 71° (ENE)
1.8ft @ 11s from 10° (N)
1.4ft @ 14s from 328° (NW)

New NW swell on the rise at the buoys. Below are the graphs of the three reported ones plus the Surfline forecast. I circled in red the new swell and drew a dotted line for Pauwela based on the travel time from Hanalei to here which, as you can see from the Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui's shadow lines post, at 14s is 9h. The graph of Hanalei suggests that it's peaking at 4f around 6am, so expect a slightly smaller peak in Maui around 3pm. That is a bit earlier than predicted by Surfline. Also check the beach report below this post.

Don't remember where this swell is coming from? No problem, let me refresh your memory with the collage of the fetches maps of March 14, 15 and 16. This swell was made by the fetch marked with the number 1. The n.2 will send a small reinforcement on Monday.

Wind map at noon. I got a feeling I might go windsurfing before work.

North Pacific shows a couple of small fetches. The one to the immediate north of us, should intensify (it's a small occluded low) and provide long lasting short/medium period northerly energy starting Monday.

South Pacific has a couple of small/weak fetches that won't do much for us other than hopefully keep some background knee high energy breakin.

Morning sky.

6.30am beach report before call today. Pauwela reads 2f 14s from nw and Hookipa has inconsistent head high clean sets but also long lulls of near flatness.

Friday, March 16, 2018

Friday 3 16 18 morning call

Longboarding and SUP foiling were my activities yesterday, here's a couple of photos from the Lahaina side.

Knee to thigh high it was. The swell got bigger in the afternoon, more like waist to occasionally chest high.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

1.9ft @ 14s from 143° (SE)

2.2ft @ 13s from 212° (SW)

2.8ft @ 14s from 233° (WSW)

Small south swell pretty steady at the buoys, usually the consistency improves a bit on day two. Stay tuned for an early morning beach report.

North shore
3.1ft @ 10s from 359° (N)

2.9ft @ 8s from 55° (ENE)
2.5ft @ 9s from 21° (NNE)
1.8ft @ 11s from 357° (N)

Both N swell and windswell tapering down significantly, today it's going to be a very small day at Hookipa. Should be clean though with very favorable winds in the morning.

Wind map at noon (24h+ old, model didn't update). Windguru suggests less wind.

North Pacific doesn't show much wave generation at all.

South Pacific keeps showing cyclonic activity. Without the map with the great circle rays on the right, I would have never been able to know which portion of those winds were directed towards us.

Morning sky.

Thursday, March 15, 2018

6.30am ukumehame is knee to occasionally thigh high and clean

Thursday 3 15 morning call

A longboard session at Honolua for me that was a 9. Couple of photos below.

In the beach report I mentioned that at the beginning of the month I called for two weeks of waves at the Bay and yesterday (March 14th) it was the last day. Not much to brag really. If you know what works for a surf spot, the Surfline Offshore Swell forecast (links n.14 and 15) tells you 17 days of predictions (with the subscription). That's what I based my prediction on and it happened to be true. Credit goes to the WW3 model and a little bit to my local knowledge. It doesn't take much to build that on your own. Just read the post Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui's shadow lines to understand what directions work for the spot of your interest (all in my case since I'm very mobile) and then observe and correlate buoy readings with sizes and you'll have a solid base of knowledge in a few months.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

2ft @ 15s from 187° (S)

1.5ft @ 15s from 217° (SW)

1.8ft @ 15s from 182° (S)

Lovely long period southerly energy is at the outer buoys, just as Surfline predicted. They only call for 1f 16s for Maui while there seems to be more than that, but we know that Kahoolawe can take its toll. Nonetheless, there should be extremely inconsistent sets today, on top of the refracted windswell that was already in the water yesterday with knee to thigh high waves. The two should look completely different in terms of distance between the waves (period) and frequency of arrival.
Surprisingly, Pat Caldwell doesn't seem to have noticed this small southerly pulse as he wrote: No surf from the southern hemisphere beyond tiny is expected through the period. What can I say, let's hope he's wrong. We'll find out soon, I hope I'll have time to post an beach report around 6.30am.

North shore
3.5ft @ 11s from 345° (NNW)
3.1ft @ 10s from 352° (N)

4.6ft @ 7s from 64° (ENE)
3.6ft @ 11s from 351° (N)

Northerly swell steadily tapering down, but still not quite dead yet. Thanks to the favorable winds, Hookipa will be very clean this morning and probably still up to head high. Can't post a beach report, as I need to be on the south shore very early for a company board meeting.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific shows two NW fetches and a E windswell fetch.

South Pacific shows a nice fetch SW of New Zealand.

Morning sky.

My favorite human on the planet Dr. Greger just came out with another little masterpiece. I love his pragmatism.

Wednesday, March 14, 2018

9am honolua has very inconsistent waist to occasionally head high sets. 15 people total, but there's not many waves.
I wrote that the bay was going to be breaking every day for the first two weeks of March, and today is the last one.

lahaina side had knee to occasionally thigh high waves and clean conditions everywhere.

7.15am Hookipa looked still overhead and windy from the distance

Wednesday 2 14 18 morning call

Shortboard session at beautiful Honolua Bay yesterday for me, below are some photos I took.

Doubl hand drag proved to be successful down the line.

Tanner Hendrickson was way up the line and got this barrel there.

And hit the closeout afterwards.

5am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.6f 16f but only in the afternoon. That would be the start of a low, long lasting, long period swell coming from the remote fetches circled in the maps below (6,7 and 8 March).

North shore
4.4ft @ 12s from 336° (NNW)
3.9ft @ 7s from 33° (NE)
3.6ft @ 10s from 341° (NNW)

6.4ft @ 7s from 57° (ENE)
4.1ft @ 12s from 349° (NNW)

The NNW energy disappeared at the NW buoy, while it's still at the N one. That confirms what I wrote a couple of days ago about the swell being bigger east of the NW buoy. Still some energy in the water though, on the steady decline for the next couple of days. The Surfline Offshore Swell Heights forecast proved to be extremely accurate again, so below are the next three days. The purple line is the NNW swell, the red is the E windswell. I'll post a Hookipa beach report by 7.30am. Webcam shows still overhead and windy.

Wind map at noon shows easterly trades. So easterly that the early morning hours should see no wind down the coast.

North Pacific looks better than yesterday with a couple of small NW fetches. The related small swells should arrive Sunday and Monday.

South Pacific shows two very remote fetches.

Morning sky.

Tuesday, March 13, 2018