Monday, August 21, 2017

Indo report. Day 23 - August 21th

Morning session was clean chest to head high, but more people than waves. First time in 23 days in which I didn't have fun.
Conditions were nice though, I gave it a 7. Once again, the gopro battery for some reason was dead, so no photos.

Afternoon session had moderate wind but straight offshore, so a good 8, as the couple of shots hopefully show.
The trend is for the size to go down and for the wind to increase, so I decided to go back to Bali tomorrow and figure out the rest of my travel plans.
It was an amazing 23 days of surfing my favorite wave in the world.

Sunday, August 20, 2017

Indo report. Day 22 - August 20th

Morning session was an 8 with uncrowded head high glassy waves with occasionally bigger sets. The gopro battery was dead, so I don't have photos of it.

Afternoon session had same size and lack of crowd, but some sideoff wind and as such just below the excellent range: 7.5.

Saturday, August 19, 2017

Indo report. Day 21 - August 19th

I didn't feel 100% and I took a day off. Also because there's another medium size swell on the forecast (3f 16s) and I decided to delay to return to Bali. The waves will be bigger over there, but I have more fun here.
The picture shows the two boards I've been mainly using over here:
- a 6.2x19x2.5 T&C Pang
- a 6.10x19.75x2.75x40L designed by Kazuma and built in Bali by Redz

I finished reading The plant paradox by Dr. S. Gundry. The author asserts that most whole grains, legumes and fruits (including fruits that are called vegetables like tomatoes, zucchini, eggplants and squashes), contain proteins called lectins that are harmful for the human body.
The arguments are very convincing and I think I'll give his food plan a try when back in Maui. If it fixes my chronic trigger finger conditions, it will be a proof that he's right and I'll stick to it.
It's all about feeding the good bacterias in your gut and starving the bad ones, he says. We'll see.

Friday, August 18, 2017

Indo report. Day 20 - August 18th

Morning session had high tide, but a perfect light offshore wind groomed the soft head to head and a half waves beautifully. The crowd was low and I gave it an 8.7.

After lunch session had some stronger than usual sideoff wind. At Hookipa that would have been close to epic, here I ranked it a 3 (it's usually straight offshore) and cut the session short after only half an hour.

I hit it again at sunset with lighter wind. Sunset sessions used to be my favorite here, because of the amazing colors of the light through the lip (see photo below), but now they're always crowded.
The size was still there, but the Wind direction was still sideoff, so I only gave it a 7.

Thursday, August 17, 2017

Indo report. Day 19 - August 17th

I skipped the morning session to give the cut a full 48 hours of dryness and hit the water after lunch.
Conditions were pristine with head and a half to double overhead sets: 9.2.
I forgot about the cut pretty much right away, which means that I wasn't feeling it at all and that was really good news.
It was my first time ever that I surfed with stitches and I was glad to find out that it was just fine. The following shots speak by themselves.

Wednesday, August 16, 2017

Indo report. Day 18 - August 16th

The waves were massive and the wind wasn't perfect. Since I have a freshly stitched up cut on my head, it was an easy decision to take a day off.

Below is an instagram post by Surfline, showing the power of this swell in Bali on the 15th.

I don't know how to create a link from my phone, here's the address of the page:

Tuesday, August 15, 2017

Indo report. Day 17 - August 15th

And much bigger it was: head and a half with double overhead sets getting more and more frequent. With the 6.2 Pang, I could only get three waves in 1.5 hours in the morning session, but they were all quite a rush. Conditions were a 9.
I couldn't resist asking Californian Jessica, by far the most beautiful girl in the lineup, for a photo together. I told her I was going to call the photo "the beauty and the beast". 

And the beard keeps growing.

The afternoon session was totally epic and a clear 10. The waves were up to head a half to double overhead with occasional two heads and a half sets.

This time I was on my 40 liters 6.10 and that helped me getting in early. I was on a great roll, and caught 5 bombs in the 80 minutes.

Then I went for a manly duck dive attempt on a big one, only to have the board ripped off my hands and slammed on my head.
That resulted in a 2 inches long cut (but fortunately not a deep one) that required a trip to the local clinic and a bunch of stiches.
When I asked the doctor how many, she replied:"I put many because you said you'd like to go surfing tomorrow, so I wanted to close it very tight".
Thanks a lot Dr. Amy, I really appreciated your service. I was pretty sure that was going to be the end of my surfing for a while.

True to my resolution to try not to take any medications for the rest of my life, I also kindly refused the antibiotics that she offered me.
I'll be very scrupulous in the after session cleaning, and I will be just fine.

In the moment of the first shot below, I saw the lip over my head, but it's still obviously far from a barrel. After today's accident, I doubt I'll push the issue tomorrow. I'm having too much fun to risk to cut the trip short.
Best surf trip of my life, without a doubt.

Monday, August 14, 2017

Indo report. Day 16 - August 14th

Transition day. In the morning it looked pretty small, so I took a half day off. In the afternoon it was waist to chest high and clean with light offshore.
The photo shows a chest high one that was a 9, while the overall conditions were a 6 for the place. Tomorrow should be much bigger.

Sunday, August 13, 2017

Indo report. Day 15 - Wednesday August 13th

The size went down to shoulder to head high and the morning session offered very clean conditions that I ranked as 9. That's when the fun factor goes through the roof here.

The afternoon session was on a full tide again and I was pretty much by myself the whole time. Still head high, a little choppy at times, but still an 8.

Saturday, August 12, 2017

Indo report. Day 14 - Wednesday August 12th

The Magicseaweed forecast was calling for a trending down 4.5f 15s at 6am, but instead it was bigger than that.
In the Indian Ocean the wave models don't have the luxury of the buoys to adjust their forecast, which, I assume, is based exclusively on the output of the wind models that predict the winds of the storm that generates the swell.
Some sets were solid double overhead, pretty shifty (both inside/outside and left/right) and it sure was challenging to be in the right spot and easy to get caught inside.
Nonetheless, I enjoyed just being out there admiring those big (but sill not menacing) waves and getting my morning workout. I managed to catch a couple of good ones, as the two shots below show.
Towards the end of the session, the offshores improved the conditions greatly and I gave it a 7.5, with occasional excellent waves coming through.

The afternoon session was with a full tide, which is totally under estimated here. As long as it's decent size and the wind is light offshore, I actually prefer it. The most relaxed big waves sessions I can think of.

I used the big board and that was a key factor, since I could have not got into most of the waves I caught with my smaller ones.
Here's a couple of shots from a session that was a solid 8.5, despite (or maybe thanks to) the size trending down to head and two thirds, with the occasional double overhead bombs still coming through.
What a trip this has been so far and it doesn't look like it's gonna slow down for another full week. After which, it's predicted to go small and windy and that's when I'll go back to Bali.
Travelling based on wave forecasts is the way to do it.